A broken wrist & long walk over a rock hard, crystal white, slippery floor made out of river water, subzero temperature, water flowing under broken ice bergs, near death experiences, no nearby habilitation and night camping under billions of stars while temperature falls to -40°C………..Now that’s what I can declare an experience of Life Time.
Chadar Trek is a very popular high altitude 62-65 kms trek over frozen Zanskar river in North of India. Best time to do this trek is December & January in extreme winter season of this barren land. It’s around 65 Kms trek over the frozen Zanskar river water surrounded by very high vertical cliffs on both sides of river. Trek starts from Shingra Koma village; approx. 3-4 hours scenic drive from Leh-Ladakh. Couple of tourist spots like magnetic hill, confluence of Zanskar & Indus rivers are on the route.
I did a lot trekking in the past, but this was unequivocally something very different for many reasons. For example, this trek has its own funny way to make you realise & punish at the same time for smallest mistake you make while walking. When I started the trek on first day, I expected a lot of challenges, beautiful ice structures, exquisite landscapes, river tempo under thick/thin ice giving birth to fear in heart & mind; however what I didn’t think about is when you hit a hard surface while falling under a frozen river you break some of your bones and that near death experience make you think again what all you left unfinished.
Well! every day had some adventure & memories but real adventure for me started on Day 4 while coming back from Naerak – The summit of Chadar Trek. I was little faster than the group and way ahead of them, walking lonely on the river bed, watching peaks on both sides and nothing but white sheet on the ground & blue sky over head. I crossed hardly 2 kms when a sudden and abrupt crack opened in the river causing my left leg going inside of river. With quick reflexes, I managed to regain my balance using my left hand on the floor of river and ultimately breaking my wrist but saving my life by going inside of furiously flowing river. I felt excruciating pain so lied down there for some time before I could think again of moving. I tried to see in hope if anyone around to help but then realised I am doing Chadar Trek. 🙂 I walked around 3 kms to base with my left wrist on right hand and even a slightest fumble was taking my life away in pain. Once I reached base, tried some lotion and crepe bandage. Now the real challenge was to walk with that broken hand for 3 more days to reach Leh city, somehow that was done successfully with painkillers and of course, without my rucksack. A long hot bath followed by chilled brew were the last milestones.
A plaster for wrist & hand was the return gift of Chadar Trek. And above all the unforgettable terrain, frozen waterfalls, deserted landscapes, Ladakhi’s hardship, local’s generosity and an unpromised return journey were few of many reasons for a lifetime encounter.
UNLIMITED GOD 